Home Forums Song-Bike Forum Rules Guitar Setup

This topic contains 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  todd 1 year, 12 months ago.

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  • #1162

    todd
    Participant

    So, I have my new guitar and the strings seem very high? The store said they can do a setup for 90.00 but they are not very forthcoming on what they will do to it. I called Takamine and they said all I need to do is to “remove the shims from the bridge” and that should reduce the string hight that is set at factory max. Is this easy to do?
    They also said to adjust the truss rod after removing the shims. Is that easy to do ?
    They seem to think it was easy to do and said I should learn. What does every one think?
    Should I do or pay the 90.00 and let the store do?
    Todd

    #1164

    Wjbnole
    Participant

    My first quality guitar was a Takamine that I paid about $1,000 for about 12 years ago. Shortly thereafter I bought a hand made Zager for about the same price. Denny Zager, from the one hit song writing team of Zager and Evans (in the Year 2525) made the guitar and sold it under the banner of E Z Play. That means low action.

    What a difference between that guitar and the Takamine!

    So I went to a local guitar shop and had the action on the Takamine adjusted. It’s much easier to play now.

    I don’t recall what it cost, but I don’t think it was $90. I wouldn’t take a chance doing it myself.

    One reason beginners give up on guitar is because they have an inexpensive model with high action.

    After you can play a few chords, go back to your guitar store and try out some different models. Compare the action. Find your sweet spot between play-ability and affordability.

    BTW, Zager still makes and sells guitars (direct, not through retail distribution). I like the sound quality on my Takamine slightly better than the Zager, but I play the Zager 90% of the time for its play-ability.

    #1167

    todd
    Participant

    Yup, I love my Tak a lot….Was looking at it for 1 year in the store and after I found this site I got it! I took a class on setup and after I took the class I did my own setup. .025 under 12th and no buzz and check for level frets and did a re-crowning at .053. Narrow frets won’t cause your intonation to drift as much, but they wear down faster than wide frets. If you grip the neck tightly while playing or use a capo, the strings will pull sharp as you play if the crowns are wide. Removed all shims and cut nut to hold .035, .045, .056 D’Addario EJ19 strings correct at first fret. Cleaned some rough spots on the bridge caused by shipping and made smooth. Oiled the fret board and gave the frets a buff to take out the fine marks left from re-crown. Just a note here….The more you use a capo, the more damage it does to the frets. As the capo clamps down on the strings, it smashes the strings into the frets and much harder than if you were to play a chord. As a result, frets begin to flatten and develop pits and dents. This is great news for a guitar tech, but not so good for the player. To avoid unnecessary “capo-inflicted” fret damage, I suggest you use a capo with a tension adjustment. Many capos simply press the strings down to the fretboard without offering a way to adjust the tension. If you use a capo with a tension adjustment, you can clamp the device with just enough force to prevent string rattle, yet reduce additional fret wear. But, all of this is just my idea on my issues. HAHAHAH

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